Remember Kit-Kat Densetu? It’s back! In po—er, well, it’s back at any rate. I visited the legendary Kit-Kat store in Ikebukuro last time I was in Tokyo, which turned out to be a very tiny stand that sold very fancy and very expensively packaged special flavors of Kit-Kat.

We begin with Orange Cocktail Noir, which I shared with my parents while they were in town somewhat recently, to their amusement. If you’re old enough to remember old Kit-Kat Densetsu entries (if not, ask your parents), you’ll recall that we’ve seen orange-flavor Kit-Kits before. This version is different! And not just because of the packaging.

Though the packaging is really quite fancy.

Such fancy packaging deserves fancy plating. Inside, the box contains four mini-bars of Kit-Kat, each individually wrapped. Because it’s Japan. Anything with less than three layers of wrapping when you collect it from the sales clerk is considered downright savage.

Ah, you can see the difference between Orange Cocktail Noir and Suppai Orange right here: This is dark, not milk, chocolate. You probably could have guessed that from the name, though admittedly we’re mixing English, Japanese, and French here, so you could be forgiven any confusion.

I was slightly surprised to find my mini-bars arrived in less than pristine condition. For this I paid a premium? I never!

Anyway, no: Despite the minor visual blemishes (and who cares; this is cheap mass-market candy, despite the luxe presentation), Orange Cocktail Noir Kit Kat (everyone agreed) turned out to be worth the premium. I’ve had dark chocolate Kit-Kat and orange Kit-Kat, but surprisingly this was the first time I’ve ever seen the two combined. It makes for an obvious, and obviously excellent, pairing. The majority of the orange flavor comes from the creme between the wafers, though there’s a slightly fruity note to the chocolate as well.

I’m sorry, I just referred to tasting notes vis-a-vis candy. What have I become?

The problem with really good limited versions of Kit-Kat, of course, is that it makes me less interested in plain ol’ Kit-Kats. Orange Cocktail Kit-Kat actually hurts the brand. Oh well! I’m happy to have had the experience, fleeting as it may have been. Unless they start selling this Kit-Kat variety in mainstream channels, you’ll have to go to Tokyo and pay a stupid amount of money to try this snack; my advice would be to not do this. If, however, you already happen to be in Ikebukuro… heck yeah, go for it.